I wasn't expecting much from today, stopping in Fuyang to see a few things I wasn't sure I would be able to see. But I was wrong. First was Ouyang Xiu's old 會老堂 home. It is now inside 生態園, a huge recreation park, and it was at the farthest end of the park. I was told it was closed. It was closed, but I found it and was able to take some photos through a side window. What was disappointing is that Ouyang's adjacent 六一堂, where he entertained visitors, was gone. It was now an overgrown field. C'est la vie. After a few photos, I walked back outside of the park and flagged down a taxi and went to my next stop: Fuyang's famous West Lake—about ten kilometers or so west of town. The lake was why Ouyang Xiu decided to live here in the first place. In fact, he said the lake was his office. The lake was easy to find, but Ouyang's favorite area was a long walk away. Just as at the recreation park, there were no other visitors. I couldn't blame them. It was so cold. The place I wanted to visit was a long way to walk, but fortunately a man who worked there escorted me and my taxi driver there in an electric cart. A few minutes later, we were there. But it was strange to be there—in winter. Still, it was beautiful. After that, I had the taxi driver take me back to Fuyang and drop me off at the corner of 解放北路 and 清穎路. On the northwest corner was what I was looking for: the old government building that replaced the former Yamen where Ouyang Xiu and Su Dongpo worked when they were magistrates. Behind the building, they had a garden and a hall they called 聚星堂, where they entertained friends and visitors. It was just a parking lot for local residents now. The building and the parking lot were slated to be restored somehow, which is the only reason they hadn't been torn down. After I took a few photos, I started searching in the adjacent alleys for the old well I had read about. While I was looking around, I walked into an office in charge of the local area and asked the workers there about it. They not only knew where the well was, several of them led me there. It was right across the street from the Old Yamen on the northeast corner of 解放北路. The well, they said, used to be in front of an old building there, but it had recently been cemented over. I was naturally disappointed, but the workers had another surprise. Back across the street, facing the old Yamen was a Christian church that was being rebuilt, and they led me inside. It had been there for over a hundred years, and its Christmas service, they said, was attended by over 2,000 people—though not this year. I was amazed and wondered how they could all fit inside. I didn't wonder long. With that, I called it a day, an unexpectedly very full day.
