特伦甘纳邦的加德瓦尔纱丽:位于特伦甘纳邦的加德瓦尔距离海得拉巴约100公里,以加德瓦尔纱丽而闻名。
Gadwal sarees of Telangana : Gadwal in Telangana is situated about 100kms from Hyderabad is famous for Gadwal sarees.
加德瓦尔纱丽传统上的特点是棉质衣身搭配丝绸边框和帕卢( pallav,即纱丽末端垂搭部分),但现在,采用鲜艳对比色的纯丝纱丽也非常普遍。在编织过程中,棉质衣身的经线会与丝绸帕卢的经线通过手工方式连接在一起。
Gadwal sarees were traditionally characterised by cotton bodies and silk borders and pallavs but now pure silk sarees in bright contrasting colours are also very common. The cotton body warp is manually joined to its silk pallav warp during the process of weaving.
它们采用一种称为‘库帕达姆’(Kupadam)的交织纬线技术编织而成,边框上常带有‘贡帕’(Kumbha,意为宝瓶)图案,因此常被称为库帕达姆纱丽或贡帕纱丽。
They are woven in the interlocked weft technique called Kupadam often with Kumbha in the borders and hence were often referred to as Kupadam or Kumbha sarees.
用于边框和帕卢(pallav,纱丽末端垂搭部分)的丝绸可以是塔萨尔丝(Tussar,即野蚕丝)或桑蚕丝。加德瓦尔纱丽的帕卢上还带有大型的倒置神庙图案,这种图案被称为‘雷库’(Reiku)。女性在举行普祭(puja,印度教祭祀仪式)及其他宗教仪式时会穿着这些纱丽,因此这些纱丽也被称为普祭纱丽。
The silk used for the borders and pallavs could be either Tussar or Mulberry silk. Gadwal sarees also carry large, inverse temple motifs in their pallavs known as Reiku. Women wore these sarees during puja and other ritualistic ceremonies and hence these sarees were also called puja sarees.
据说,丝绸是由瓦拉纳西的织工引入加德瓦尔的,其影响可从极其华丽的边框和帕卢(pallav,纱丽末端垂搭部分)中看出。
Silk, it is said, was introduced to Gadwal by the Varanasi weavers, whose influence can be seen in the highly ornate borders and pallavs.
